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StringedInstruments
Auburn Fan
Member since Oct 2013
13027 posts

All of the pipes in my old house have been replaced with PEX except for the pipe that runs into my kitchen sink. The water pressure is abysmal and I’d like to switch to PEX.
Is this a possible DIY project or one that’s best left to plumbers?
I’d have to crawl through a pretty cramped crawl space to get to the sink if it matters.

Depends on how dedicated a DIY'er you are. I have my own set of PEX tools for crimp or expansion fittings so for me it's an easy DIY, you may not want to make the investment in tools and time for a single job though. Also, for water pressure situations, PEX is often the culprit more than the solution depending on the system used. Crimped PEX fittings really cramp down the overall inside diameter, you need to upsize to a 3/4' PEX to meet the need of a 1/2' copper run. Expansion PEX systems don't suffer from that issue though.

TigerBalsagna
LSU Fan
tRedStick
Member since Jan 2015
566 posts

Not sure this solves your pressure problem, but if you are up for it...do it. Its an easy job if access is good.

StringedInstruments
Auburn Fan
Member since Oct 2013
13027 posts

quote:
Not sure this solves your pressure problem,

So then it is a plumber job since the pressure is all I’m after. The trickle of water is making washing dishes a total pain in the ass.

dltigers3
LSU Fan
Collierville, TN
Member since Jun 2010
1453 posts

Have you taken the screens off your faucet to make sure they aren’t clogged?

StringedInstruments
Auburn Fan
Member since Oct 2013
13027 posts

quote:
Have you taken the screens off your faucet to make sure they aren’t clogged?

Yep. Faucet is only a year old anyway.

dltigers3
LSU Fan
Collierville, TN
Member since Jun 2010
1453 posts

Gotcha, has it had low pressure since it was installed a year ago or is this a new issue?

StringedInstruments
Auburn Fan
Member since Oct 2013
13027 posts

quote:
Gotcha, has it had low pressure since it was installed a year ago or is this a new issue?

Low pressure before install. Gradually getting worse though.
Home inspector said pressure for the house is fine and that it’s probably the steel pipe.

MikeBRLA
LSU Fan
Baton Rouge
Member since Jun 2005
13181 posts

How is access? This is the main thing. If your house is on a slab and the copper is currently running through the slab and your kitchen sink has a window in front of it then getting pex down the attic and around the window is going to be a major issue. That is probably why that is the only faucet that hasn’t been converted to pex.

dltigers3
LSU Fan
Collierville, TN
Member since Jun 2010
1453 posts

If the pressure has gotten worse I would say it is due to some buildup, if you can get decent access, PEX is easy to work with. I would suggest buying uponor pex that expands. This type has no reduction in the lines so you will have maximum flow. You can buy a cheap expansion tool on Amazon, or at a local supply house.
Another easy thing to possibly check would be the shutoff valve for the faucet. Maybe something hung up as it went through the restriction there

after the shutoff, if you have a removable cartridge valve on the sink, check it too. We had a shower that had low pressure and I shut off the water and remove the valve cartridge. It had some screens on it that were clogged.
If possible you could also try unscrewing the shutoff valve with the water turned off at the street and see if debris has built up before the valve. maybe even turn it on real quick with a bucket somehow rigged or held to help blow anything out too.

quote:
. Faucet is only a year old anyway.

Doesn't matter, they can clog instantly if you've stirred up enough loose debris during the installation. That's why you are supposed to pull the aerator or filter screen to flush out the crud before putting it in use.

awestruck
Auburn Fan
Member since Jan 2015
7472 posts

Couple of things not mentioned
Faucets (valves) have a flow rate. They're seldom talked about but listed somewhere on the packaging. It'll be listed as GPM. And fortunately or unfortunately depending on how your looking at it.. these have been lowered several times over the years. So if your new valve has less flow than before (and the line and screens clear) this could be the culprit. You might check the model number online and see what it's rated. Then perform a check like this one... here. It's for a bath and shower but same principal. Some of the new ones are embarrassingly slow and it's really not a matter of price. It's a matter of design.
Another consideration
Instead of purchasing the equipment for crimping PEX (either major method) you could go with a Shark-Bite type coupling. And while it may indeed have that little inline piece to reduce the flow somewhat... I'm guessing it'll still deliver more than the flow rate of most new valves. They are a bit pricey; however the total price of this method will be way less than any other way (this side of borrowing the tools).
One caution: fasten the pipe well (using a fastener) so that there's no side pressure on these connections. They do not function well (meaning they'll eventually leak) with much lateral/side pressure. So while you can bend PEX on a run; always fix/attach to something solid near the fitting. Support it. Another hint: pencil mark the PEX an inch (perhaps) from the end... so you can tell how far it's into the fitting when done.
eta: USE TWO fasteners one may not be enough

awestruck
Auburn Fan
Member since Jan 2015
7472 posts

Haven't ever done this...
But I'm guessing you could always do that flow rate test through the faucet. And then again using a supply line coming off the stop valve.
To compare results...it's sounds like your more than capable for such... and it's cheap.

ConstructionAg
Texas A&M Fan
Houston
Member since Jun 2020
7 posts

I just got through doing a PEX (Uponor/expansion) re-pipe of my entire house, well...almost done, to replace the old galvanized steel pipe. There were times through the process where I was turning the main water supply on and off again since I kind of replaced it in phases to keep running water most of the time. In doing this, our kitchen sink, which had decent pressure before, all the sudden got noticeably worse (still connected at that time to galvanized pipe). Figured it would get better in a few weeks once I had replaced the pipe to PEX to the sink. But it did not. Even when connected to PEX. I cleaned all the screens and there was noticeable rust in them but it did not improve the pressure.
I ended up disconnecting the flexible supply hoses under the sink (both hot and cold) at the valves and put those ends into a bucket. With the screen and aerator removed, I took my air compressor and shot air at the faucet down into the bucket. Sure enough, chips of rust shot out and pressure was good again.

I did some plumbing work recently, client complained about how little flow was coming out of the new shower heads. Pulled them down, got a small pick, and removed a small black o-ring that served as the flow restrictor in each one. Much better flow.

baldona
Auburn Fan
Florida
Member since Feb 2016
13908 posts

If OP has steel pipe his issue is likely mineral build up in the pipes reducing the flow. While Pex does have smaller inside diameters then copper, a 1/2 pex is still plenty for showers and faucets. 1/2 pex will deliver more water then most shower heads and faucets can deliver themselves.

dltigers3
LSU Fan
Collierville, TN
Member since Jun 2010
1453 posts

And I may be wrong on this, but if you use uponor pex, you have no constriction through the fittings like you would with similar sized copper pipe so in reality, there should be no difference in flow rates when you account for the copper friction loss in the fittings

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